Ten Ways to Hold a Stone: A Guide to Ring Setting Styles

By Adnan, KD Fine Jewellery, London

Every stone in a piece of jewellery is held by metal, and the way that metal is shaped is called the setting. It decides how much of the stone you see, how much light reaches it, how well it is protected, and how the ring feels on the hand. Most people choose a ring without ever being told the options. These are the ten settings we use most in our Hatton Garden workshop, and what each one is good for.

Claw settings

Claws (also called prongs) are small posts of metal that rise around a stone and are pushed over its edge. They hold the stone with the least metal and let the most light in, which is why they are the classic choice for an engagement ring. Our guide to claw settings explains how they are cut and how they age. The shape of the claw changes the whole character of the ring.

Talon claws

Modern. Sharp. Bold.

Named for the curved claws of a bird of prey, talon claws are drawn out to a fine point that curves over the edge of the stone. They follow and sharpen the lines of the cut, and give a ring a more graphic, contemporary look than a round claw. They need precise shaping and finishing so that the tip grips firmly without catching on fabric.

Round claws

Sleek. Refined. Timeless.

The round claw is the classic form: a small dome of metal over the edge of the stone. It holds securely, sits comfortably, and makes a soft transition from metal to stone that lets the stone lead. Claw-set solitaires became the standard engagement ring in the late nineteenth century, and the round claw is still the setting most people picture when they think of one.

Thumb claws

Clean. Secure. Understated.

Thumb claws are broader and flatter than round claws, shaped like the end of a thumb pressed over the edge of the stone. Because each claw covers more of the girdle, they hold the stone very securely and sit low, with little to snag. The result is a cleaner, more minimal look in which the claws read as part of the design rather than as separate points.

Pavé settings

Pavé sets many small stones close together across a surface so the metal almost disappears. There are no claws as such. The setter drills a seat for each stone, then raises tiny beads of metal with a fine engraving tool, called a graver, and pushes them over the edges of the stones. How those beads and the metal around them are cut gives each style its look.

Pavé

Elegant. Sparkling. Even.

The word comes from the French for paved, and the effect is just that: a surface of stones set side by side like cobbles. Each stone is held by small beads shared with its neighbours, and the metal around them is often bright-cut - trimmed with the graver into clean, reflective lines that frame the stones. Good pavé depends on every stone sitting at the same height and every bead being large enough to last.

Micro pavé

Fine. Precise. Brilliant.

Micro pavé is pavé on a smaller scale, using stones often around a millimetre across, so fine that the work is done entirely under a microscope. Because the stones are so small, the metal between them almost vanishes and the surface reads as continuous sparkle. It is demanding work: each bead must still be large enough to hold its stones for years, which is where well-made and poorly made micro pavé part company.

French pavé

Elegant. Open. Light.

French pavé, also called fishtail or V-cut pavé, cuts away the metal at the side of each stone in a V shape, so that from the side the setting looks like a row of small fishtails. Each stone sits on a minimal bead with more of its edge exposed, letting in extra light and making the stones appear larger and brighter than in standard pavé. It is a delicate, highly finished style that shows the setter's hand clearly.

Enclosed and flush settings

These settings surround or sink the stone in metal rather than holding it with points. They protect the stone more, and give a cleaner, more architectural line.

Channel set

Sophisticated. Clean. Continuous.

In a channel setting, stones sit side by side in a groove between two walls of metal, held at their edges by the walls rather than by claws or beads. The line of stones is uninterrupted and the edges are protected, which makes it a practical choice for wedding and eternity bands worn every day. The channel has to be cut precisely so each stone sits level and tight.

Rubover

Elegant. Refined. Protective.

Also known as a bezel setting, a rubover surrounds the stone with a continuous wall of metal that is pressed down over its edge all the way round. It is the most protective setting there is: the stone's edge is fully covered, nothing catches, and pressure is spread evenly - which suits included stones such as salt and pepper diamonds, coloured gems and active hands. The polished wall frames the stone, giving a clean, modern look.

Star set

Delicate. Bright. Celestial.

In a star setting, a small stone is set flush into the surface of the metal and lines are engraved by hand radiating out from it, like the points of a star. The stone is held by tiny beads raised where those lines meet its edge, and the bright engraved cuts catch the light around it. It is an old engraver's technique, well suited to scattering small stones across a band or the face of a signet.

Tension set

Sleek. Striking. Suspended.

A tension setting holds the stone between the two open ends of the band, gripped in small notches by the spring of the metal itself, so the stone appears to float. With no claws or walls, the stone is seen from almost every side. It demands precise engineering and the right metal, and it has one important limitation: a tension-set ring generally cannot be resized without being rebuilt, so the size must be right from the start. Our ring size guide helps.

Choosing a setting

There is no best setting, only the right one for a particular stone and a particular hand. A diamond meant to sparkle may want claws; an included or coloured stone may want a rubover; a band worn every day may want a channel. Settings can also be combined - a claw-set centre stone with pavé shoulders is one of the most familiar engagement rings of all.

When we design a bespoke ring, the setting is decided alongside the stone, because each shapes the other. If you would like to see these settings on real stones, book a consultation and we will put them under the loupe for you.

KD Fine Jewellery. Hatton Garden, London.
Bespoke commissions by appointment.